Getting from A to B has generally not been a problem for us, and since we were longing to get out of tiny Muang Sing, Huay Xai sounded like a good option (hell, they've even got an ATM everything!).
When taking a bus (or rather, an ancient mininvan that seems to fall apart in every bend and bump) in Laos, one generally has to show up in time at the bus station (a big field where buses, people, cows, dogs and chicken idly wander about), at least 45 min before departure time. The reason being that even though you might have bought a ticket well in advance, it's first come first serve when it comes to the very limited number of seats that are to be shared by a very large number of people. The drivers often make small people sit on top of each other, so for once I'm happy we're giants...
The buses usually take their time in leaving the departure station since passengers forget stuff at home and make the bus drive around town looking for their friends, family and belongings. All the while we sit uncomfortably (we're only just short enough to fit into the seats) confined, usually sweating generously accompanied by strangely familiar popular music ala Lao.
There being only two buses a day to Muang Long (we had to catch the earlier one so we wouldn't get stuck somewhere), we took a gamble and arrived at the bus station a measly 10 min in advance hoping that three seats would somehow magically be found (we were busy packing and getting take-away tofu...). And what do you know; when we arrive it was half empty!
We happily hopped onboard and enjoyed the views, while the crowd of passengers grew thinner and thinner. At Muang Long (teeny town in the middle of nowhere) we were the only ones still on the bus. The driver kindly informed us that there wouldn't be a bus to Xieng Kok. He flashed a big smile and said he would drive us there for 50,000 kip per person. "Expensive!" we complained in our minds, but kindly agreed since staying the night or heading back were no options. Our cash preserve was alarmingly small, and as you alreday know ATMs are few and far apart in Laos.
The view from the bus window was stunning: clear rivers, lush, green hills, peculiarly shaped trees, clear blue skies and adorable little villages dotted about the valleys we passed. We couldn't quite believe we were there, smack in the middle of it all!
A few km before Xieng Kok we got a flat tyre. "Bummer!" I thought, expecting the driver to wreak havoc. Instead of stopping the vehicle and inspecting the damage, our driver didn't seem to mind/notice. He drove on in oblivion. Luckily we avoided further delays.
We were dropped off at a crossroad and somebody pointed the direction of the speedboat quay. The Mekong floated on serenely and Burma on the opposite shore looked enticingly green and wonderful. The border dudes (either lying in their hammocks or playing petanque in the shade) told us, there would only be boats to a random town upstream from where one had to take a taxi to Huay Xai. "Fine, how much then?" we asked casually. "1,5 million for all three.". "Say what?!" We certainly did not have that much cash on us, so we sat down and started devising plans for our survival. We had enough water for a day or so, and we could probably sleep next to the border control hut, maybe even hang our mosquito nets somewhere. Maybe we could sell our ipods or something...
So we sat there giggling nervously, counting our money which we pulled out from various emergency stashes. But it just wasn't enough to get us on the darn boat.
Suddenly two falangs appeared; a British couple who were fresh off from Thailand. They had taken a speed boat from a town opposite Huay Xai (on the Thai side of the Mekong), and they had paid considerably less than what was proposed to us. When realising that Xien Kok was not a place worth staying in (we didn't think so though. On the contrary, it was a sleepy little town blessed with an incredible setting. Just the way we like it!), they were in a hurry to get back to Huay Xai. They had more money than us (surprise) and generously offered to take the more expensive option, revealing us from a night under the stars. We were no longer in dire straits.
Except soon we would be. Quite literally.
The speed boat certainly lived up to its name. The exilirating ride took place in a small, thin rickety vessel with an enormously powerful engine in the back. We were provided with motorcycle helmets equipped with visors, to shield our faces with. Sitting in the front felt front you felt very much like cannon fodder.
The driver zipped skilfully, avoiding all the sandbars.
Again we were in awe of everything around us. So many secret beaches and swaying banana trees! What a nice smell of flowers!
We arrived at Huay Xai after dark, two visits to Thailand later, and thanking our lucky star we could just afford to pay for the tuktuk ride into town. There was even a new 24h ATM right next to our relatively affordable GH. "Now let's go explore the city!"
Huay Xai, you certainly didn't give a good first impression: Heaps of falangs acting stupid (being high, drunk and meddling in other illegal activities), expensive food (groceries at Finnish price levels...).
We're planning of spending as little time here as possible, either taking the boat to Luang Prabang (probably another backpacker ghetto) or just heading somewhere remote. Vang Vieng doesn't really sound so glorious, after overhearing some less attractive people loudly talking about tubing and getting messed up...
Lucky we don't really have any plans or high expectations. That makes it all the more exciting. We'll update from somwhere, sometime!
//R
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